- Righting your boat should be practiced in a controlled setting so that you gain
direct personal experience in the mechnics. Only then will you feel confident in your ability
to right the capsized boat.
- Any crew or guests should be properly instructed as to the procedures and individual
responsibilities in case of a capsize.
- Be able to swim. Wear a PFD (even if you are able to swim) and ensure crew is wearing one.
- Due to its hull shape, the Harpoon will initially begin to heel quickly - more than
you'd expect given the beam. However, the boat will equally quickly respond to shifting weight
on the gunwhale and/or to hiking out. Even if a surprise gust dunks the leeward gunwhale
in the water, you typically have plenty of time to respond.
- Be familiar with the circumstances that can lead to a capsize both upwind as well as
downwind. Always be alert and look for the winds coming your way.
- In gusty conditions, do not cleat the mainsheet and look for the puffs on the water.
Learn to instantly depower sails by luffing and pinching.
- Beware of the downwind death roll, especially while under spinnaker. When the boat begins
to rock and roll, head up a bit until the boat settles down.
- Be totally clear on the centerboard pulley lines, the uphaul and downhaul. If you should
not have them color coded and accidentally get them confused, you might in the heat of the
moment pull the center board up rather then down and that - in shifting or gusting breezes - could
be an instant ticket to a swim.
- I suggest installing a Rescue Line. This is a rope you secure around the foot of the mast.
The rope should be long enough so that it can reach over and beyond the gunwhale by at least
eight feet. When you capsize, this rescue line will be tossed by the crew on the sail side
of the horizontal boat over the gunwhale. The helmsman on the other side can then pick up this
line, use it to climb on the center board and begin to pull the mast back up. Typically, manuals
suggest to use the jib sheets for that purpose. The rescue line will work much better because
you can (and should) leave all sheets uncleated so that they do not become giant water scoops.
NOTE: The extra wide beam makes the Harpoon 5.2 more stable but also more difficult to right. The rescue line should be long enough that the person at the underside of the boat can easily reach it, even if the boat has already begun to turtle.
NOTE: If the boat has indeed capsized, Invoke Righting Maneuver Without Delay ! You definitely want to avoid turtling the boat or worse, getting the mast stuck in mud. The wide beam of the Harpoon 5.2 causes this boat to want to turtle more quickly. The floatation pads in the head of the sails prevent this from happening too quickly. Nevertheless, time is of the essence. This is why it is critical that everyone be instructed in the precedures in advance.
- If you are sailing single-handed, I also recommend fastening another line on the inside transom padeye. This line should have a loop tied in such a way that this loop can be used by someone in the water as an easy foot step to re-enter the boat over the transom withou assistance. Both the Harpoon 4.6 and 5.2 can actually be righted single-handed. The 4.6 rights easily whereas the 5.2 is more of a challenge to right without a crew's help. The rescue line and step-in line would make the processes more manageable.
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Frequently Asked Questions and Issues:
Updated: 2/23/2002
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Ordering Harpoon Brochure Reprints
Identifying Correct Hull / Sail Numbers
Replacing the Rub Rail
Repairing Bailer Insert Area
Planing the Harpoon
Heeling your Harpoon
Setting up the Rudder (Replacement)
Checking the Center Board
Installing a Center Board Purchase System
Rigging and Flying a Spinnaker
Installing a Motor Mount
Repairing Hull Blisters
Avoiding - Recovering from a Capsize
Useful and Relevant Links
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Brochure Reprints
;)
NOTE: The following offer is made by an independent collector of sailing
brochures. His company is entirely unconnected to this web page. Click PIC!According to the owner of MarineInfo & Design:
- I provide copies daily for people all over the world. I
basically charge copying cost plus a small amout for my time. For example
a 4 page brochure on the Harpoon would cost $15.00 plus postage.
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MarineInfo & Design, Inc.
258 Harvard Street, PMB 292
Brookline, MA 02446
781/286-2202 facsimile
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Identifying Correct Hull / Sail Numbers
Any Harpoon owner will surely have noticed the discrepancy between the 12 digit Hull ID plate and the stencilled hull number. In order to clarify this matter, we contacted Mr. Chuck Bennett from Boston Whaler and according to him:
- The Harpoon 5.2 started with Hull #7A0000. This boat went to C&C Yacht, the
designers of the Harpoon. The 12 digit Hull Identification Numbers did not
necessarily run in order.
It is not uncommon to find sails on which numbers appear that match the Hull Identification Number. If and when you consider purchasing a new sail and wish to display the correct sail / hull number, you should use the hull number which is stencilled on the inside of the transom. If the number is for example 7A0156, your sail/hull number is 156. The leading zero should not be displayed on your sail.
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The Rub Rail Replacement
If the three part rub rail of your boat is in poor shape, you will be able to replace it for a very reasonable price (about $75 in 1999) because this is still a Boston Whaler stock item which was also used on the old 15' and 17' Classic Sport and Montauk power boat models.
Just contract your nearest Boston Whaler dealer and order the rub rail kit:
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For the Harpoon 5.2 or 4.6 the kit Group number is 500-05005
For the Harpoon 6.2 the kit Group number is 500-05007
(Click here to see attached file)
Courtesy of Chuck Bennett: Remove the old rub rail by pulling out the old insert, exposing the rivets. Drill out the head of the old rivets and remove the rigid rub rail and flexible vinyl. Any rivets that are sticking out, just hit them below the surface with a hammer and fill in the old holes with some 3M 5200 marine sealant adhesive.
After the 5200 has cured try and get the black insert as warm as possible while you are installing the rest of the rubrail. Placing the insert into a black plastic bag or a tub of hot water, helps it fit into it's track later...
Tape the smaller, flexible vinyl (wider lip on top of the gun'l) using 1" masking tape. Starting at the aft end of the boat, start riveting the rigid rub rail (with the lip on top) working your way to the other end of the transom. Cut the vinyl even with the transom with a hack saw. I usually round of the inside track a little to allow the insert to wrap around to the back of the transom as shown on the diagram.
A little dishwashing liquid with water around the rigid rub rail track will help the black insert pop into it's track easier. Place the insert into the top and bottom tracks of the rigid rub rail, about 2 feet at a time. After the top and bottom lips of the insert are in place, hit the center of the insert with a rubber mallet to pop it in place. Work your way round the boat (a few feet at a time) and then finish up the ends at the transom as described in the installation sheet.
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Repairing Bailer Insert Area
In response to various Harpooners who needed to replace their bailer and found that the area surrounding the bailer had rotted away, we asked BW's Chuck Bennett for advise:
According to him, the area was simply cut out to form a rectangle for the bailers to fit into and then a coat of gelcoat was applied over the the foam or the wood.
The earlier models didn't always have wood located there, so the foam, itself was just painted with gelcoat to seal it (similar to the small drain holes that run through either side of the boat, just under the gun'ls). The bailers had a bedding compound to seal it against the hull. The bailers were thru-bolted from the bottom and any excess length of bolt was snapped off on the inside. BW recommends digging out any water-logged foam or plywood and filling it with either an epoxy or a polyester resin mash (resin with milled fibers, cab-o-sil, and chopped fibers). Make sure the area filled goes past the thru-bolts to prevent the glass from getting crushed when tightening. Then just grind back the area after this epoxy or mash has cured and add a layer of 2 oz mat to prevent the filler from cracking and then seal it with a gelcoat after blending it to the surrounding area.
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Planing the Harpoon
The Harpoon is a PLANING dinghy. This means that under the right conditions, the front portion of the hull lifts up above the water and begins to ride its own bow wave. As a result, the boat can exceed the hull speed and achieve significantly greater velocity.
The Harpoon 5.2 can plane in as little as 11-12 knots of wind. You can recognize this wind speed on most lakes because that is when usually the first white-caps begin to appear. At 18 knots you'd see many. There are several tricks that will encourage the boat to jump on the plane sooner rather than later. If you have never planed a boat, your dinghy will initially feel somewhat "out of control" because you really enter a new dimension of speed. When wind speeds are generally sufficient (10-15), be on the look out for a gust. If you are closely hauled, fall off to a beam reach. Ease the main a bit and wait for the puff to arrive. AS the boat starts to accellerate, trim the main with a quick move and shift the weight AFT and OUT (hike hard). That extra push will get you on a plane more readily.
Remember that on the Harpoon under most conditions, FLAT is FAST. So, if the boat heals too much , the energy that could go into planing speed is instead wasted on the righting moment. Your best chances of getting the boat on a plane is on a beam reach with CB raised at least by 35-40%.
Rudder Setup Replacement
;)
When a Harpoon rudder is lost it is not easy to find a replacement because
the original builder of the Harpoon rudders (Vanguard) no longer has the
designs. I have supplied a number of Harpoon enthusiasts (who were in the
rudderless predicament) with a sketch of the dimensions of an original
Harpoon 5.2 rudder. The following are several solitions to the problem:-
1. Contact Burt Powell via his web site or
call him at 817-641-6744. He was able to get originals molds. So, now he makes replacement rudders
and offers them to Harpooners at very reasonable prices. Check out his web site
for pictures and more details.
2. White Bear Boat Works has made a Harpoon rudders to the above mentioned dimensions. However, this rudder is made of a single piece of 1/4" aluminum. Both the rudder head and the tiller are also aluminum. They will attach the hiking stick of your choice and they will also installed a pin on the rudder which allows it to be locked in a position that will keep it out of the water. The approx cost as of Aug 99 was $450. According to one recently rescued rudderless Harpooner, they really did a nice job and it did not require surgery on the transom. This company is keeping a copy of the plans in case another Harpoonist needs one:
- White Bear Boat Works
4495 Lake Avenue
White Bear Lake, MN 55110
Ph. 651.429.7221
Fax 651.429.3248
Contact: John Peterson
- Full View -
Rudder up -
Rudder down
Rigging and Flying a Spinnaker
Two Downloadable Spinnaker Articles - by Jay Levy
- The first article (in Winword format - 23 kb) on the subject of
Spinnaker Rigging
was originally written for Classic Whaler Magazine and was kindly provided by
the author for this BW Harpoon site. For follow up questions, you may contact the author via
email or by phone at 317-826-3192.
The second essay (in Winword format - 50 kb) on the subject of Flying a Spinnaker on the Harpoon 5.2 was provided by Jay Levy in response to several requests on the Harpoon Forum.
The following two blueprints were provided by Jay Levy. They will be very useful to anyone who wishes to outfit his Harpoon with the proper spinnaker hardware and correct locations.
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Blueprint 1
Blueprint 2
NOTE: If you wish to download these expandable pictures, simply make use of the right-click menu option "save as".
Pictures
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Spinnaker Pole, Topping Lift, Downhaul
Pictures of a spinnaker tube launching and retrieval system:
The Tube mounted on starboard side of CB trunk
Chute Flying above
Chute in tube with clews and head set for launching
For additional pictures, please check out Fall Sail in Western PA
as well as other pictures on the Gallery page.
Heeling Harpoons
Repeatedly the question of the heeling angle has been raised. For the Harpoon dinghy, FLAT=FAST. Therefore, it is advisable to minimize heeling under most circumstances. Aside from the hydro-dynamics coming to bear on the hull, a flat Harpoon will have a lot less weather helm. Inevitably, the more the boat heels, the more weather helm you'll experience and the more effort is spent on the "righting moment" rather than forward thrust.
There are situations where a certain amount of heeling is indeed desirable. One instance is the moment that leads in to the planing of the hull. Another situation which calls for heeling are very light winds conditions. In that case, you'll want to heel the boat (by shifting your and/or crew weight) in order to reduce water surface contact area and more importantly, in order to ensure that the sail shape is maintained even when the wind does not offer sufficient strenght. Finally, roll-tacking and the hydro-dynamic forces associated with this maneuver demand intentional heeling.
In very heavy weather, when sailing upwind, you may opt to bring up the center board the slightest bit (at a rake) which will have the effect of reducing weather helm because it will reduce the natural heeling tendency. As a final point on this subject, it is worth knowing at what heeling angle your Harpoon is beyond the point of righting. To some extent the measure of safety will depend on the water surface conditions and to another it'll depend on total crew weight. In general, the Harpoon can have the rub rail entirely submerged in the water and still not yet be anywhere close to a capsize. Obviously, this angle should only be experienced when a surprise gust or major wind shift sent greetings. Crew as well as helmsman's weight is most effective in the counter-balance act when both sit near the thwart of the boat which also is the part with the widest beam. Especially when single-handing your Harpoon, avoid the common mistake of sitting near the transom.
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Avoiding - Recovering From A Capsize
When sailing a centerboard dinghy, capsizing is a possibility that can never be ruled out. In general, the Harpoon is a very stable boat primarily due to its unusually wide beam. Nevertheless, it is essential for any dinghy sailor to be well familiar with the available capsize recovery methods. These paragraphs are not intended to replace a good sailing manual or instruction. Any safety conscious sailor should be confident in his/her ability to right a capsized dinghy. The following comments are strictly designed to be a supplement to the basic sailing knowledge.
It is possible to sail the Harpoon for decades and never capsize, even if you don't have hiking straps. Since the boat is totally self-rescuing there is no need to fear. Capsizing a Harpoon is in part a matter of how much risk you are willing to take and what wind and wave conditions you are willing to brave. You will be pleased with how little water remains once the boat has been righted and the totally self-rescuing evacuation of water through the bailers is a matter of seconds. In that the BW Harpoon is about as safe a dinghy as you could possibly get.
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Installing the Pony Motor Mount
;)
The original motor mount kit had the order number 15034000. This simple kit was described
in the Harpoon Handbook. If this or a similar kit should not be available through your
local Boston Whaler dealer, it would not be too difficult to have a similar mount made
by a machine shop. The dimensions can be identified in this
rough sketch.The correct location on the port side of the transom has a strong plyboard brace underneath the gelcoat. You should be able to visually identify the location of this brace by carefully looking at the transom.
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Checking the Center Board and Pulley System
As discussed in the FLAWS segment of these pages, though difficult it is nevertheless very important to check the center board and its pulley system for corrosion of the lines and proper operation. It is particularly advisable to do so when purchasing a boat that has seen salt water service or that has not been used for a while. I have heard of cases where the new owner of a Harpoon found the center board pop up into the casing while on his first sail.
;)
In one way of another, you have to get underneath the boat and unscrew the four screws which
are the pivot casing of the center board. Once you have done this, the entire board will slip right
our of the slot. If you do this while the boat is on the trailer, you have to allow for sufficient
room to get the board out. Be sure to have the pulley lines cleated so that the board does not
fall out abruptly.;)
Once you have remove the screws, you can then uncleat the lines and gently
lower the center board to the point where you can inspect the two entry/exit points of the
uphaul and downhaul pulley lines leading into the top and bottom side of
the center board respectively. Be sure that there is no excessive wear on these ropes and that
the knots are secure and tight inside the two crevices of the center board. If there is any doubt,
replace the rope. NOTE: The clickable pictures are of a Harpoon 4.6 center board.If the trailer is constructed such that you cannot lower and remove the center board while on the trailer, you will have to either (1) raise the boat off of the trailer with a crane or (2) tilt the boat on its side while in shallow water. Either method is cumbersome if you do not have the proper set up to undertake such as project. Furthermore these options could also lead to injury if not done properly. I would therefore strongly suggest to let such inspection be performed by a marina boatyard or sailboat shop which has the proper boat hoisting mechanism.
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Installing a Center Board Pulley Purchase System
As explained elsewhere in these pages, the original CB pulley system is primitive and awkward to use. After two years of working with this set up and much consideration, I decided to devise a 3:1 purchase system. I did so only after I had figuered out a method that would require minimal invasive action. In fact, the only item that actually needs to be attached is a heavy duty pad eye which screws in the small side of the CB trunk facing aft. (NOTE: The pictures below are of the setup on a Harpoon 4.6 The same type of system can be installed on a 5.2) Here then is what you need besides the pad eye:
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- 2 blocks large enough to accommodate the CB uphaul and downhaul ropes - 2 smaller single blocks with becket - 2 in-line double blocks with cleat (fiddle block similar to boom vang) - 2 lines of approx. 10 feet length - 2 lines to attach blocks with purchase to the strap eye - 1 line to attach the two larger blocks to mast or tabernacle |
Click to magnify picture!;)
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You begin your alterations by changing the direction of the CB ropes that come out of the
trunk. They are normally set up to emerge over two pulley rollers and then run aft to their
respective cleats on top of the CB box. Now you'll need to feed these ropes over the pulley
rollers so that they emerge running toward the mast. The two ropes then run each through a
block attached by rope to the mast or tabernacle. The ropes must enter the block inside
and exit on the side closest to the edge of the CB trunk. From here, the ropes respectively run diagonally along the CB trunk under the thwart and toward aft. Along the sides of the trunk, each rope attaches to a fiddle block which is connected via the purchase line to a single block with becket. That block in turn is tied to the heavy pad eye installed at the aft facing side of the CB trunk ...and Voila! |
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Blister Repair and Gelcoat Work
The following suggestions were offered by Mr. Chuck Bennett of Boston Whaler:
While gelcoat is the most durable and water-resistant finish available for boats, water can get find its way through sometimes and build up between the glass and the gelcoat....causing blistering. To repair the smaller blisters would be the same as the larger ones, i.e. sand down the blisters, break them out (heat helps draw out any moisture), grind any larger ones and fill with a fairing compound. Make sure all of the moisture is gone before filling.
NOTE: The smaller type (tapioca) blisters are very common on boats that have been kept on a mooring for any length of time.
Interlux has a product called Inter-Protect 2000, a Barrier Coat. It comes highly recommended in the repair and as a preventive measure against blistering. You may want to check out the Interlux website for more info. (www.yachtpaint.com/usa/frameset.htm) Click on Interprotect in the right corner.
I, usually, recommend the Interlux Interprotect 2000 barrier coat and then bottom paint over that, because it is quite a bit easier than re-gelcoating the entire bottom. Regular boat paints don't seem to "cut it" under water and will, usually, start peeling or blistering.
If you would like to keep the original gelcoated finish on the bottom, you could simply sand down the bottom of the boat with an air powered or electric sander and some 100 or even 50 grit (depending on how bad the blistering is) sandpaper. Try and sand through any blistering, this will expose the fiberglass and allow the laminate to dry out. A heat gun or a heat lamp will help draw out any moisture. The bottom should be clean and free of any dust before filling the holes and divots left from the blisters. If you can, blow off the surface with an air blower and wipe clean with acetone.
You can use Marine Tex if you'd like, however, since you are using gelcoat you can make a paste out of it by adding a powder called Cab-o-sil or you can order patch paste when ordering the gelcoat. Fill the blisters with the paste (or Marine Tex), I would recommend filling with paste and then painting over (with a brush) using gelcoat. This prevents cracking and fills in some of the paste as it shrinks a little while curing. After this cures, sand and blend in with the rest of the bottom. Finish off with a 100 grit and prep for spraying. (Blow off and wipe with acetone). Mask off and spray. After the gelcoat cures you will then have to sand with different grits to obtain the smooth finish. Use 180 grit on an electric sander first (220 grit on a dual action sander) and then finish off with a 500 grit wet sand (or 400/600 on a dual action). Buff the surface with an electric buffer and a good paste compound (made for gelcoat) until all of the sanding scratches are gone and wax with a good boat wax.....Lot's of work, huh!
Boston Whaler gelcoats are available through two manufacturers:
- Mini-Craft of Florida 800-282-6591 (www.minicraft.com)
Spectrum Color out of Washington State 253-735-1830 (www.spectrumcolor.com)
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Useful Links and Information
Here are some links I have founds interesting and relevant to Harpooners.
http://www.bucnet.com/
http://www.image-ination.com/sailcalc.html
http://www.cruisecortez.com/webbbs/trailersailor/index.cgi
http://www.trailersailor.com/links/index.html
http://www.sailingindex.com/
http://www.sailboats4sale.com/
http://www3.sympatico.ca/rodney.brandon/faqs.htm#speed?
http://www.sailingworld.com/ssbk/ssbolndx.htm Sailors Source Book 1998
